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The
Spahn Ranch: From Hoss Cartwright to Charles Manson
Introduction:
If
there was any one watershed event that could be attributed
to bringing about an end to
the “peace & love” hippie movement, it would be the heinous
murder spree of Charles Manson and his devoted followers.
During the sixties, the counter-culture inspired hippies tended to
reject the conservative beliefs held by their parents.
These beliefs were forged by hardships experienced by their
respective parents during
both the Great Depression and World War II. The hippie
movement was about social non-conformity and the possession
of a different outlook on morality than the previous
generation. The movement spread out during the
mid-sixties from both the San Francisco Bay area and New
York City’s Greenwich Village. By 1968, hippie fashion and
music had reached the main stream of both American and
Western European culture. The crescendo of the movement
occurred in upstate New York during August 1969, as 500,000
people attended the idyllic Woodstock Music Festival.

The most important
film of the era was Easy Rider, a 1969 film directed
by Dennis Hopper which starred Peter Fonda, Jack Nicholson
and Hopper as peaceful hippies on a journey to discover both
themselves and America. It caught the mood of the
times as the protagonists fought with rednecks and out of
touch policemen
during their road trip adventure. At that point in
time, hippies were
generally viewed in a somewhat positive light.
That image began to
change in December 1969, as the seams of the movement began to crack. During the month, the Rolling Stones free
concert at Altamont Speedway near San Francisco ended up in a
chaotic, drug
induced nightmare of violence. Also in December 1969, California authorities made the first
arrests in the horrific Tate / LaBianca murders. The Spahn Ranch in
Chatsworth, California was the base of operations used by
Charles Manson and his followers during their 1969 murder
spree. The Manson Family case can be regarded as a metaphor for
the end of innocence of the decade of peace and love.
Manson, who studied
Scientology while incarcerated in the Los Angeles County
jail, moved to San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district after
his release in March 1967. There he became a
self-professed guru and assembled a number of spaced-out
female runaways that were looking for love, attention and
guidance. When he arrived at the Spahn Ranch in the
summer of 1968, the Manson Family included approximately 30
young women as well as Manson and five other men.
During the early
stages of the trial, the underground press supported Manson
and the family. They were viewed as victims of a repressive,
capitalist
society. However, as the trial proceeded and the family's behavior
grew publically more erratic, that support ceased.
In October 2014, I
decided to travel to Chatsworth to explore what remains of
the Spahn Ranch. Maybe I did it out of curiosity or possibly
as an effort to get a better understanding of what took
place there during 1969. The place was quite scenic
with remnants of the old stage trail still apparent.
The solitude and desolation of the ranch (now a state park)
stood in stark contrast to the rambunctious days of 1969.
However the peaceful atmosphere of the ranch still held the
spark of some unknown form of misguided energy.
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The
Spahn Ranch:
The
infamous and now-desolate Spahn Ranch is located at 12000 Santa Susana Pass Road in
Chatsworth, California. Santa
Susana Pass was named by Spanish settlers to honor St.
Susana, a 3rd Century Catholic martyr. The
rugged trail
through the Santa Susana Pass was initially used as a
transportation link between the settlements of Los Angeles and Santa Barbara.
Stage Coaches began using Santa Susana Pass during 1861
after the state of California spent $15,000 on necessary
trial improvements.
The Homestead Act of
1862, provided that any adult citizen, or intended citizen,
who had never borne arms against the U.S. government could
claim 160 acres of surveyed government land in areas west of
the Mississippi River. In 1897, James Williams would stake
his claim to section of the lands that would later become
part of the Spahn Ranch.
As movie production
companies
moved to Southern California, actor William S. Hart bought
the Williams property and began using it as a ranch for
stabling his
movie horses. In 1946, the ranch was used to film the David
O. Selznick classic Duel in the Sun, which starred
Gregory
Peck. Hart sold the ranch in 1948 and it passed through
several
owners before being purchased by Pennsylvania native George
Spahn in 1953. Spahn followed the lead of other area
ranchers and began using the rugged and desolate landscape of
his Santa Susana Mountain ranch as a rental
location for both motion picture and television
production.
Spahn
constructed a replica western town on his property which included
The Longhorn Café and The Rock City Saloon, along with other
buildings representative of the old west time period. The
Spahn Ranch was
used in the filming of the television series Bonanza (1959 – 1973),
Zorro (1957 – 1959), and The Lone Ranger
(1949- 1957). In 2002, Bonanza, a warm-hearted tale of the
post-Civil War adventures of the Cartwright family, was
ranked Number 43 in TV Guide's “50 Greatest TV Shows of
All Time”, and in 2013 TV Guide included it in its
list of “The 60 Greatest Dramas of All Time.”
There were also a
number of “B-grade” movies mixed in with a few pornographic films
filmed
at ranch. Unfortunately, as the sixties came to a close,
the demand for western-themed entertainment productions had
all but dried up. The Los Angeles Times described
the future plight of the ranch as "hard rock and rugged terrain on the rim of a
fertile valley left the area virtually useless."
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The Manson
Family:
In
August 1968, Charles Manson and his followers were evicted
from their tumultuous stay at the Rustic Canyon home of
Beach Boy’s drummer Dennis Wilson. The family moved to the Spahn Ranch and agreed to help keep the property
maintained in lieu of
paying rent. With the movie filming production
business slowing down, the
ranch primarily made money by renting horse rides through
the property. The ranch offered a number of scenic
trails through the mountains and valleys that predominated
the area. The remains of the stage coach trail built
in 1861 still ran though the property and was bordered on
its south side by a dry creek. There was also a corral
located adjacent to the western town that was used for
riding instructions. The Manson Family assisted with the horse rides and
family member Lynette “Squeaky” Fromme would serve as
the 80 year-old Spahn’s de-facto wife. She received her
nickname based on the "squeak" she made when the blind Spahn
would rub her thigh.
On September 5, 1975, Fromme would
point a Colt 1911 .45 caliber semi-automatic pistol at President Gerald R.
Ford while he was making an appearance at Sacramento’s
Capitol Park. Secret Service officers wrestled her to
the ground before she was able to fire the weapon.
Fromme would spend 35 years in Federal Prison
for her crime.
In July 1969,
the Mason Family began their uncategorized reign of terror
with the
brutal murder of 31 year-old music teacher Gary Hinman. He was
found stabbed to death in his Topanga Canyon home with the
words "Political Piggy" daubed on the walls with his own
blood. Promising musician and Manson associate Robert
Kenneth "Bobby" Beausoleil was arrested by Los Angeles
Police and charged with Hinman's murder. In 1970,
Beausoleil received a death sentence (later commuted to life
imprisonment) for the crime. He is still incarcerated
in the California Penal System.
Over the years,
Charles Manson had
developed Armageddon-inspired visions of a nihilistic race war in
which the black population would rise-up and murder the
white citizens of the world. He told his followers that
they would go into hiding in a deep hole in the California desert
during the war. After the struggle was finished, the
family would emerge after the
black rulers found themselves incapable of governing. The
Manson Family would take over control of the country and
eventually rule the world. He termed this race-war “Helter
Skelter”, after a song that appeared on the Beatles White
Album. His tortuous logic was brought to light
during his
trial when he told the judge "Like Helter Skelter is a
nightclub. Helter Skelter means confusion." He would later
remark to California State criminal prosecutor Vincent Bugliosi when
asked who ordered the Tate / LaBianca murders "It's the
Beatles, the music they're putting out. They're talking
about war."
While at the ranch,
most of the family enjoyed an idyllic life style. Manson Family member
Susan Atkins would recount, "We were just like wood nymphs
and wood creatures. We would run through the woods with
flowers in our hair, and Charlie would have a small flute."
She had grown-up middle-class in San Jose, California and
had been a member of church choir. At 13, Atkins' mother
died of cancer and her father basically left her and a
brother to fend for themselves. She met Manson in 1967
and believed him to be Jesus.
Atkins would later admit that on the night on August 8,
1969, she had restrained actress Sharon Tate while Tex Watson
stabbed both Tate and her unborn baby to death. Tate
pleaded for her and the baby’s life to which Atkins replied
“Woman, I have no mercy for you.”
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At the same time,
fellow family member and former homecoming queen Leslie Van Houten remembered that
at the ranch, "I became saturated in acid and had no sense
of where those who were not part of the psychedelic reality
came from. I had no perspective or sense that I was no
longer in control of my mind." Van Houten had
moved to the ranch during the summer of 1968 along with her
boyfriend Bobby Beausoleil.
California State Criminal Court
prosecutor Vincent Bugliosi held that the remoteness of the
ranch was key to Manson's total control over his followers'
actions. In his book Helter Skelter, he states “There
were no newspapers at Spahn Ranch, no clocks. Cut off from
the rest of society, he created in this timeless land a
tight little society of his own, with its own value system.
It was holistic, complete, and totally at odds with the
world outside.”
Manson
Family member Patricia Krenwinkel apparently suffered from
low-self esteem while an adolescent due to physical problems
associated with an endocrine gland problem. After
completion of high school, she had considered becoming a nun
before joining the group. She met Manson in 1967 at
Manhattan Beach in Los Angeles and soon became a devout
follower and became known as one of "Charlie's girls."
While at the ranch, Krenwinkel acted as a mother figure to
the Family's several illegitimate children. During her
trial, Patricia Krenwinkle admitted that she had chased
Abigail Folger onto the front lawn and stabbed her to death.
Patricia said Folger told her to stop stabbing her, crying,
"I'm already dead."
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Satan’s Sadists:
During July 1969,
director Al Adamson began filming the biker-inspired move
Satan’s Sadists at Spahn Ranch. Regina Carrol, a 26
year-old actress and self-described hippie was alarmed at
the appearance of the Manson Family while they watched the
filming of the movie. Carrol made the following
statement concerning the Manson Family, “They were all bare-footed. Their hair was in
need of combing. They didn’t wear makeup, even later in the
day. They didn’t even wear any of the colorful costumes
generally worn by hippies. They’d just sort of wander around
the ranch aimlessly. To me, they appeared to be in a very
sad state of life. And when they’d come toward you, they
moved as if we were controlling them and had hypnotized them
to come closer. Frankly, it gave me the creeps,”
Family member and
soon-to-be murderer Tex Watson also hung
around the set while the movie was being filmed. He
constantly carried
two .45 caliber pistols, both stuck in his belt while watching
the production.
“Watson began bothering some of the female members of our
cast so we had to kick him off the set, guns and all,”
Adamson says. “These were literally little people. Dirty
types. You see them all around Southern California and you
don’t think much about it.”
The film Satan's
Sadists would be the last major production filmed at the
ranch before the 1970 fire.
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Helter Skelter:
On August 8, 1969,
Manson decided that he had to start “Helter Skelter” because he didn't believe that the black population
was smart enough to start a race war. That afternoon,
he instructed Susan Atkins,
"Tex" Watson, Linda Kasabian, and Patricia Krenwinkel to
go to 10050 Cielo Drive, a mansion in Benedict Canyon, north of
Beverly Hills. They were to kill everyone in the house
and leave graffiti on the walls that would lead police to
believe the murders were the product of a black
revolutionary group. The Cielo Drive residence was home to actress Sharon Tate
and her husband director Roman Polanski. While the
Manson Family made their 20 mile journey, Tate, Wojciech
Frykowski, Jay Sebring and Abigail Folger had dinner at El
Coyote Mexican restaurant, located at 7312 Beverly
Boulevard. Sharon Tate was only two weeks away from
giving birth to her first child.

As night fell,
Watson was able to scale the fence at the Tate residence by
climbing a utility pole adjacent to the mansion's security
fence. While walking up the driveway, he encountered 18 year-old
Steven Parent in his white 1966 AMC Rambler. He had
been at the residence visiting groundskeeper William
Garretson and was about to open the driveway security gate
to exit the residence when he was stopped by Watson.
Parent yelled "Please don't hurt me! I won't say anything!"
and raised his hands in a defensive posture. Watson
cut Parent's arm with a knife before shooting the young man
four times with a .22 caliber revolver. William Garretson,
lived in the guest house behind the main house and was
unaware of the murders until the next morning, when he was
taken into custody by police officers who had arrived at the
scene. He was later cleared of all charges.
After
the murder of Parent, Watson, Atkins and
Krenwinkel would gain entrance into the house through an
open window. The group first
seized Polish screenwriter Wojciech Frykowski, a friend of
Roman Polanski, while he was lying on the living room couch. Atkins would
then round-up Sharon Tate, Jay Sebring and Abigail Folger
from other parts of the house and force
them into the living room. Tate and Sebring would be bound
together by the neck with rope by Watson. When Sebring beginning
loudly and definitely complaining to the assailants about their rough
treatment of the pregnant Tate, he was shot by Watson. As
the helpless Sebring lay dying, Watson kicked him in the
face several times, breaking both his nose and eye socket in
the process. Sebring was then stabbed seven times by
Watson.
The terrified couple
of Frykowski and his girlfriend Folger
were both able to escape from the residence.
Tragically, Frykowski was be
caught and stabbed by Atkins as well as being shot by
Watson. Frykowski would be shot twice, struck thirteen
times over the head with a blunt object and stabbed a total
of 51 times. Folger was stabbed 28 times and died from
a stab wound to the aorta. Both the bodies of
Frykowski and Folger were found only a few feet apart in the
front yard.
The final act of
violence occurred when Atkins and Watson
proceeded to viciously stab the defenseless Sharon Tate and her unborn child 16 times. The
Los Angeles County's Coroner's report stated "five of
the wounds were in and of themselves fatal." The
merciless night of terror at 10050 Cielo Drive had ended.
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Leno LaBianca was a
enterprising supermarket owner while his wife Rosemary was a
successful businesswoman. They lived in the Los Angeles
neighborhood of Los Feliz at 3301 Waverly Drive. On August
9, 1969, they had vacationed for the day at Lake Isabella,
located near Bakersfield, California. The couple was
returning home as Charles Manson and his entourage were
proceeding to claim their next victims.

Susan Atkins, Tex Watson,
Linda Kasabian, Patricia Krenwinkel, Leslie
Van Houten, Steve Grogan and Charles Manson would leave the
Spahn Ranch and drive to the LaBianca home. Manson
entered the home accompanied by Watson and told the couple
that they would not be physically harmed. Manson then
ordered Krenwinkel and Van Houten into the house and told
the others to drive away from the scene. Both Krenwinkel and
Van Houten drug Rosemary into a bedroom and attempted to
stab her with kitchen knives but the victim put up a fierce
struggle against the two assailants. Noting that their
attack was failing, the two called for Watson, who entered
the room and killed Rosemary with a bayonet. Manson and
Watson then killed Leno with a knife in the living room.
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August 16th
Raid by Los Angeles County Sheriff:
On August 16, 1969,
more than 100 deputies from the Los Angeles County
Sherriff’s Department raided Spahn Ranch shortly after 6:00
a.m. They arrested 26 adults in connection with a
major metropolitan Los Angeles auto theft ring. Also
taken into custody were seven juveniles, including four
infants, that were transported to county juvenile
authorities. A Los
Angeles Times reporter quoted a deputy as stating “The
four infants, all under 2 years old, and four women were
found sleeping on the floor of a dirty, broken-down
trailer.”

The Murder of Donald “Shorty”
Shea:
Spahn ranch hand and
Hollywood stuntman, six foot four inch Donald “Shorty” Shea
felt that something was askew with the Manson Family and
expressed these concerns to George Spahn. Manson apparently
did not approve of the fact that Shea had married a black
woman named Magdalena Shea. Manson apparently became disturbed
anytime that Magdalena was at the ranch. On August 26,
1969, Manson ordered Steve Grogan and Bruce Davis to murder
Shea and dispose of his body at the ranch. Shea was 35 at
the time of his murder. Shortly after the murder, Manson and
his followers moved to an abandoned ranch in aptly named
Death Valley. Shea’s remains were
located on the ranch in December 1977, when Grogan agreed to
tell law enforcement officials the location of the body.
Grogan was released from prison in 1985 and remains the only
Manson family member who has been convicted of murder and
released from prison. Davis is currently serving a life
sentence in the California Penitentiary System.
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Arrest and Trial
of the Manson Family:
Based on jailhouse
conversations with family member Susan Atkins, an informant
provided enough information to allow Los Angeles law
enforcement officials to issue arrest warrants in the Tate /
LaBianca cases on December 1, 1969.
At present, Charles
Manson, Patricia Krenwinkel, Tex Watson and Leslie Van
Houten are incarcerated and serving life sentences in the California Penitentiary
System for their participation in the Tate / LaBianca
murders. Susan Atkins died in 2009 at age 61 while
incarcerated at Central California Women’s Facility at
Chowchilla, California.
The Final Days of
the Spahn Movie Ranch:
On December 16, 1969, a fire destroyed
the trailer that was used as a home by Charles Manson during his stay
at the Spahn Ranch. Sharon G. Rayfield, 18, was awakened by
smoke at 2 a.m. and saw flames at the foot of her bed and
tried to extinguish them. Rayfield had been helping the
new owners of the trailer, Michael G. Armstrong, 24, and his
wife, Denise, 22, transfer some horses from a nearby ranch
to the Spahn Ranch.
Spahn allowed Manson family members to
remain at the ranch after the arrests, stating that he
didn't want to judge all the kids based on a few bad apples.
Unfortunately, on a warm Friday night on September 25, 1970,
a fire started at the ranch. It quickly consumed all the
old western town buildings. After the fire, George Spahn
moved to North Hollywood while the remainder of the family
scattered across the country. In 1971, Spahn sold the ranch
to a West German investment firm that had intentions of
developing a tourist resort for German vacationers. Nothing
ever materialized of the project and in 1984; the ranch was
sold to the State of California and to the Church at Rocky
Peak. The old movie town section of the ranch has been
incorporated into the Santa Susana State Historical Park.
The remnants of the Manson Family compound and movie town
have been bulldozed into the dry creek.
The western part of the ranch is
privately owned and contains a nine-bedroom house
constructed in 1983 with an addition built in 1995. It is
presently listed in the Los Angeles County Assessor of
Property as being appraised at $2,319,524. It serves as an
assisted living home and is called Country Oaks Estates.
The property also contains a baseball field that it is
utilized by the nearby Church at Rocky Peak.
There’s nothing much left at the
Manson Family compound today other than a few rusting pieces
of metal, a small wood bridge and some dune buggy chassis. Time
and nature have a way of erasing the reminders of the past.
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Sources:
Police Raid
Ranch, Arrest 26 Suspects In Auto Theft Ring (Sunday,
August 17th, 1969) – Los Angeles Times
Trailer at Spahn
Ranch Destroyed (Wednesday, December 17th, 1969) – Los
Angeles Times
Movie-Lot Satan
Portent of Death: Cult Haunts Freak-Out Scene – (Sunday,
December 28th, 1969) – Los Angeles Times (Jeanne
King)
Helter Skelter
(1974) – Vincent Bugliosi & Curt Gentry
Hippie (2005) -
Barry Miles - Sterling Publishing Company
Santa Susana Pass
Historic Park – Historic Overview (March – April 2009) –
Alexander B. Bevil (California State Parks)
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